The Nonya Laksa ($4.80) at Madam Liew's Recipes would suit those who are averse to the strong fragrance of coconut milk. Each bowl is laden with prawns, fish cakes, beansprouts and cockles (which you may choose to omit), all smothered in a thick, subtly tangy gravy. It's a laksa that's generally lighter in flavour, so asking for extra sambal chilli would be wise.

The weekend-only Laksa Goreng ($3.60) is pretty much just the dry version of the laksa, but with a more pronounced flavour and laksa leaf aroma. Don't forget the spritz of lime!