The menu hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened (only minor additions), but the place has become better known and justifiably popular in spite of the high prices, so do book in advance or be prepared to queue. The unagi here are crunchier, smokier, and more flavourful than those served at non-specialist restaurants. One must try the Hitsumabushi, which they recommend to eat three ways - on its own, with wasabi and other condiments, or with a broth; each is delicious in a different way. They use all parts of the eel: ‘Crispy bone’ is scrumptious, grilled liver is interesting, liver ponzu is less good than ankimo (monkfish liver) as it is less fatty. Efficient and polite service.