Here’s what I learned from the praise-worthy pasta that my friends Angeline and Milly ordered: Preserved lemon juice is nothing like the juice from an ordinary lemon.
The sharpness and acidity is blunted but the taste develops into something broader and wonderfully complex. It is the backbone of the luscious sauce that coats this plate of handmade spagettini, sea urchin, small cubes of clean-tasting Patagonian toothfish and shavings of “heart of palm”, festooned with shiso flowers.
In summary, a beautifully executed dish that’s light but not at all common or simple. Which makes it the ideal choice if you are after a less heavy main course in the weekday 4-course set lunch ($55++) offered at Preludio.

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