Crumpled ribbons of homemade tagliatelle made fresh in the morning, inked and stained with salty squid ink – I thought I tasted a hint of cheese in the first few mouthfuls, but it disappeared after that. Be sure to mix the three types of fish roe (ikura, tobiko and mentaiko) and crispy flour pops into the pasta so you get different layers of saltiness and textures in every bite.

Kudos, especially, for the gorgeous sashimi-grade Hokkaido scallops just briefly seared so they were left mostly raw, which is exactly how sashimi-grade scallops should be – un-ruined.