I can recall the magnificent taste of this marbled-like-art steak from a previous visit and was very pleased to relive it all over again two nights ago.

Not counting the wedge of lime and pile of lightly-dressed raw watercress lying next to it, the grilled Mayura Cube Roll was served naked save for a few glistening flakes of sea salt. Its license to thrill lay purely in its depth of flavour, evenly-distributed and abundant fat, as well as its brief but vital encounter with extremely hot coals.

In contrast, the beef flank dish that came just before, had the robust support of a sweetish, dark brown burnt onion sauce and creamy gobs of bone marrow.

Not that one's necessarily better than the other. It all comes down to whether your taste for steak leans towards Calvin Klein minimalism or 80's Versace-inspired embellishment.