The picanha is an underused cut that’s gaining popularity, and in the right hands can taste just as good as more premium cuts. Thankfully here it is done justice. The thick cap of fat at the end of each slice is melt-in-your-mouth, and lends a wonderful depth of flavour to the meat.
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With all that meat, you’d need the proper sides to cut through the richness. Plentiful vegetables in the form of well-executed salted baked purple cabbage, heirloom carrots and celeriac horseradish mash provide a panoply of interesting flavours and textures as counterpoints to the protein. If I had to nitpick though, the foie gras in the foie gras honey mustard was not discernable at all.
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Taste: 3.5/5