The unagi here are crunchier, smokier, and more flavourful than those served at non-specialist restaurants. One must try the Hitsumabushi, which they recommend to eat three ways - on its own, with wasabi and other condiments, or with a broth; each is delicious in a different way. They use all parts of the eel: ‘Crispy bone’ is scrumptious, grilled liver is interesting, liver ponzu is less good than ankimo (monkfish liver) as it is less fatty. Low-key but pro-active, polite service.

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