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The small plates at Sideways are, frankly speaking, superior to the mains. I was awash with despair once the last piece of Sicilian Crostini ($15) disappeared from the plate. Even as the next attraction beckoned, a lasting impression from the kiss of creamy burrata, a buffer for the nduja's fiery heat, lingered. Alas, my rare encounter with spreadable pork (salumi) ended all too quickly.

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