The paper-thin skin of these smallish potatoes are wonderfully crisp and bloom with the fragrance of rosemary, while sparkling sea salt crystals lend crunch and make salivary glands go into overdrive. Just beneath this tantalising exterior lies a most comforting mealiness. To speed up the journey to carb heaven, there's the potent garlic aioli to smear all over the already glorious potatoes. Now you know why I have never not ordered this when I've dined here.

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