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The first item you’re encouraged to pick up and savour from Esora’s gorgeous autumnal “Hassan” is the Barracuda. A thick slice of the fish hugs the neat little block of seasoned rice. The roll is placed on a sheet of crisp seaweed that you are to use first in a practical way, kind of like a napkin, to hold and lift the sushi. It then quietly transitions into the role of an ingredient as it becomes part of the roll. This was so utterly delicious I found myself wishing there was a half dozen more.

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