Hands up those of you who must order “Butter Chicken” whenever you are at an Indian restaurant. Well, I’d like you to meet the “Butter Mushrooms” at Thevar. It’s a mixed mound of meaty fungi that’s been sautéed then served on an insanely aromatic, rich curry paste. The finishing touch is a snowfall of finely grated paneer cheese. Freshly made, hot and flimsy naan bread follows on a separate plate. To eat, you can tear it and use the pieces to scoop/swipe up the mushrooms. Alternatively, fold the whole naan in half to hold the filling so you end up with a “Butter Mushroom taco”. It doesn’t matter really because what you want is to get that deliciousness as quickly as possible in your mouth.

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