But I don’t judge a food by its cover. The first bite impression of this La Quenelle de Brochet Gratinee ($30) was intriguing. Cooked in a Chardonnay sauce, the semi-mousse, semi-tofu texture of Pike fish was soft, buttery and milky yet saltish. And while I am still in puzzled state, it ends with a sharp note on the taste buds. Nice try.