Whilst Man Man’s unagi was soft to the bite and stickily sweet, and Uya’s unagi was memorably charred and smoky in character with a good crunch to the proceedings, Unagiya Ichinoji’s sendup is comparatively unexciting and vanilla in disposition, although it proves to be a happy canvas for the pleasingly spicy sauce and exotically mala-esque sansho pepper at your tableside disposal. 3.7/5