Chapter 3

Braving The Queues

Wait 30 minutes for hokkien mee? No scared. It's in our blood.

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There's wasn't very much to do in the '80s, and at least half as many food options for families to go to on weekends (and on shoestring budgets too). When Marina Square was still a very 'happening' shopping mall, and the food centre was 'al fresco', my dad used to bring the family there at least once a month to eat at Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles. The queue was always snaking long, and I never understood the attraction of this food stall. Daddy queued very patiently for more than an hour each time, while we, the hungry kids, frowned and waited for the food to arrive (I always ran off to find something else to fill my tummy first!). I didn't like pork or liver, but I loved the crackling pieces of dried fish. Everyone sacrificed their dried fish for me, so my bowl of noodles was always filled with the fish and no pork. As I grew up, I was so accustomed to having this bak chor mee, I associated it with my Dad whom I love so much, that I naturally grew to love all the meat that came with the noodles over the years (yes, including the pork lard!). I have no idea how my Dad knew the boss, but he did, and whenever the boss was at the stall, he would always feed my family for free, even though Dad insisted on paying him. Only occasionally would he allow my Dad to pay for our noodles. Even his son, who took over the business, knew my Dad and was always kind to this 'Uncle'. We followed the food stall from Marina Square to its current location at Crawford Lane, where the queues never seem to cease or move any faster. I think that shows how much effort they put into every single bowl of noodles they make. Leading up to the days before my Dad passed on, he still asked to have his favourite (and mine as well) Bak Chor Mee, even though he could only eat a few mouthfuls. I guess it was the memories of how he grew up, and also how his children grew up with Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles. I still love it very much, and would never think any other stall was half as good. I've recommended it to many friends, all of whom end up liking it as much as I do! I am missing Daddy so much, and my all-time favourite noodles — one with extra, extra vinegar, now please! #hawkerpedia

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When I was in my early teens, my parents used to take us to the Lagoon Hawker Centre for dinner after we had spent an afternoon cycling on rented bikes along East Coast beach. Once we secured a table, my youngest sibling would be the "tissue packet" — left to guard the table against other hungry customers. The rest of us would divide and conquer; heading to various stalls to order our must-haves, such as satay beehoon, orh luak (oyster egg omelette), and jiu her eng chye (cuttlefish with kang kong). With tasks fulfilled, we'd return to the table and wait for the food to arrive. At this point, my father would inevitably make a beeline for this beef noodle stall. Even though there'd be a long queue, because the old hawker took his time to cook each bowl individually, my father never seemed to mind. He needed his fix, regardless of the other gazillion dishes we had ordered. Although the business has since been handed down to the old man's son, there are things that have remained constant, which of course, is very much appreciated by my father. I reckon the young man is doing his dad proud by preparing the beef noodles with the same great care. For instance, like his dad, he slices the brisket, tendon, and tripe only when he is about to cook up an order. The rationale is, if sliced too early beforehand, they tend to dry out, and won't taste as good. His attention to detail has led me to cultivate a strong liking for their beef noodles as well. I wouldn't describe the broth here as being intensely beefy. It does lean towards the lighter side, and has a slightly sourish tang due to the addition of kiam chye. Personally, I like it a lot as it's refreshing on the taste buds. Plus, I'm a sucker for anything with kiam chye. And finally, what is beef noodles without a solid chilli dip? Theirs is adequately zingy, but for those of you who crave greater face-puckering heights, you can help yourself to the bottle of vinegar placed thoughtfully on the counter. My advice is to go early if you want to avoid the queue. Having said that, I find it heartening to know the stall still commands a queue. That's real world speak for many "👍"! #hawkerpedia

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I might be biased since I grew up with this, but this is the best kway chap I've had so far. For years, weekends saw my family driving to this coffeeshop. My dad would queue while I sat patiently at the table, waiting for a glorious plate of perfectly braised pig intestines, tau kwa, pork, and hard boiled eggs all drenched in savoury zhup. I always attacked the pig intestines first — and still do today — they're my absolute favourite. I haven't come across any kway chap stall that braises their tau kwa as well as this stall does. Or perhaps I choose to remain partial. I've been eating the Kway Chap from this stall for as long as I can remember — from having to sit on two stacked plastic chairs just so I could reach the table and barely being able to finish half my bowl of kway, to being able to polish off a bowl of kway and an entire plate of 'liao' (and more). I have also grown to adore the chilli, which is just sour enough to brighten up the whole meal. There's just something extremely comforting about the food that you grew up eating, and it never fails to hit the spot. I don't have this as frequently any more, but when I do, I can't help but think about how much work these hawkers put in, and how privileged I am, since many of them will be retiring soon! #hawkerpedia

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Have you ever had a craving so bad that you went on a crazy midday run just to satisfy yourself? I did. Not just once, but more than a few times actually! Even though it's a good 3km run away from my place, when the craving comes, I just can't stop it — I have to run to this coffeeshop for my spicy noodles. And although this bowl of instant noodles keeps me, and many other patrons waiting for at least 30 minutes, you know it's worth waiting for when everyone around you is doing it too! Tangy noodles bathing in a sweet broth, and a bowl brimming with ingredients — this is a recipe for yumminess! Pair it with a glass of homemade iced lemon tea to cool down, and you're set for a wholesome lunch! #hawkerpedia

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End of Chapter
Awesome Stallholders
Chapter 4 Awesome Stallholders

Thanks for keeping my laptop safe, Aunty!

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