The gyu (beef strips) were tender, lightly spiced with chilli flakes, soused generously with Japanese shōyu, and adorned with fried garlic shavings. Every bite culminated in a burst of charred, garlicky aroma, and I particularly enjoyed the sticky sweetness from the coalescence of sauce and onsen egg. Perhaps the sushi rice deserved better marination, but even on its own it was invitingly soft and fragrant.

Kogane Yama is celebrating their first anniversary by pricing all their rice bowls at $11. This has attracted insufferably long queues. But if you can weather the wait, their non-tendon rice bowls make a persuasive case for being, quite literally, worth your while.

🏅 9/10
💭 Must try

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