Despite what people may say about mock meat, I still find fascination in how something made from soy and starch can bear that much resemblance in flavour and (almost) texture. This hearty bowl at San Sann is packed with mock char siew and beef bits, both toothsome additions to the dish. The broth runs on the lighter side, nothing too heavy for an early lunch, with tau fu pok and eggplant with an oddly delicious burnt flavour.

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