Slightly glazed, sprinkled with sesame seeds, and beautifully crunchy; saturated with salt, oil and a numbing blast of Sichuan peppercorn. I like the bony, superhot, almost burned la zi ji at some other restaurants in town, But the la zi ji at Paradise Dynasty is splendid. The experience is akin to a treasure hunt, chopsticks darting through the mountain of chiles for stray nuggets of meat, an activity you will pursue like Davy Jones, long after the last bit of chicken has definitely disappeared.

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