The woodfired oven at Pavilion’s new Bello sets expectations high, and the crust on the pie almost lived up to it with an enjoyably crisp, smoky exterior that gives way to the softer, bread-like insides.

Can’t say the same about the toppings! The salami was tasty (and lacking in volume), and that’s about it. The most integral element — what’s supposed to be a warm, stretchy blanket of mozzarella was instead a thin, almost non-existent layer that yielded little flavour.

Despite what the oven might tell you, the fresh pasta dishes at Bello will fare much better.