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Secret Life Of Fatbacks

Secret Life Of Fatbacks

All reviews come under here.
Shawn Loh
Shawn Loh


The fat-inspired menu showcases indulgent, oil-rich dishes such as Lemak (twice-steamed nasi lemak with prawns, crustacean-infused oil, coffee sambal, sambal balachan) and Ah Buta Den (lard sambal with kurobuta roasted house-cured bacon steak), with Chef Shen Tan's various signature chillis being stellar as usual. The night's showstopper was the Bok Bok (kampong chicken confit with chicken fat scones, chicken fat soy caramel, butter), with the magically umami butter instantly enlivening every inch of surface it coats, lending to its underneathlings a savoury merriment the equivalent of gustatory technicolour glory.

The dinner was paired with curated wines from Epiphany Wines (@sgepiphanywines), with the dishes prepared using some of the newest models from Bertazzoni's range of cooking appliances. The vibrant and eyecatchingly-coloured ovens from the Professional Series - clad in Lamborghini and Ferrari-esque coats of paint (the cookers undergo the same painting processes as those for the famous Italian sports cars) - are essential for every Stepford-pretty kitchen.

Plays it like a mischievous cross between black pepper chicken and Chong Qing spicy chicken. 3.7/5

The chilly tartness and playful spice of its accompaniments send a shockwave of pleasurable electricity through the macho, feral terrine proceedings, with the marriage of refinement and traditional flavours analogous to the meeting between a Raffles Girls' School student and an ordinary Singaporean in the Braddell neighbourhood. 4/5

With only a wisp of its feral underpinnings lingering, the lamb rib plays it all smoky, char siew-sweet tenderness. 3.8/5

Jeremy Gillon (whom I first met at the short-lived Audace at Wanderlust Hotel) brings to the highly customisable dining experience his signature catalogue of indigenous herbs from the Savoie region in the French Alps, using herbs ranging from fern and sage to exotic ones like angelique, ortie and acchileé in a variety of ways across the menu (some of which are fairly unexpected). The herbs also feature strongly in the nature-inspired cocktail menu of the The Lounge Bar on the second level of the premises.

IG: @larvitar Creator of Secret Life of Fatbacks.

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