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Secret Life Of Fatbacks

Secret Life Of Fatbacks

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Shawn Loh
Shawn Loh
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Essentially the love child from a secret tryst between Char Restaurant's legendary, honey-sweet, wobble-fatty char siew and a more traditional one prepared by one of them surly and burly singlet-wearing uncles from Old Airport Road Food Centre. 4/5

The chicken rice elements - down to the distinctive fragrance of coriander - played surprisingly faithful to their source material whilst the rice was a cross between baked and glutinous rice, resulting in a curious crossover not unlike a rhinoceros wearing a Nanyang Girls' High School uniform. 3.5/5

PS There is an on-going $60 all-day promotion which covers two mains, two drinks and a dessert, which is tremendous value.

The juicy steak possessed smoky, seductively charred edges and the tender, vulnerable softness of a Telok Kurau Pomeranian. 4.1/5

Audaciously brilliant in its willingness to go the whole hog with its rich, authentically savoury and daringly spicy salted egg agenda, and one of Non Entrée Desserts’ most triumphant avalanches yet.

The richly umami creation - complete with wobbly-soft briny sea urchin joy - comforts the mouth and tummy like a good Vick VapoRub for your gustatory soul. 3.9/5

P.S. We were not told that the NETS/credit card payment systems were not available yet...until the end of the meal. Not cool for a place which deals with alcohol, uni and steak, guys. (On a side note, how wonderful is DBS PayNow? I would have outright flipped but for such service saving all parties concerned a lot of pain.)

I did not manage to lay my hands on any Kueh Salat during the dinner, but was shown the milk of magnanimous kindness by somebody who sneaked me a secret piece from the kitchen. You know who you are, thank you a million billion.

The evening gave us a rare glimpse behind the private side of Chef Malcolm Lee, and his dedication of success to his adorable and very classy grandmother (she wore pearls like the matriach she was) likely warmed the cockles of many a heart in the room. Here's to more years of excellent Peranakan cookin', sir.