Western

Western

Featuring Forty Hands (Tiong Bahru), HOUSE at Dempsey, Spathe Public House, PasarBella (The Grandstand), Lolla, Marché Mövenpick (VivoCity), mezza9 (Grand Hyatt Singapore), Platypus Kitchen (Bugis Junction), LeVeL 33, Omakase Burger (Orchard Central)
Jason Wong
Jason Wong

The temerity to serve something as divisive as tripe deserves respect, and these garnered aplomb at our table. I tend to avoid tripe because it can be hard to get right, these though were wondrously soft and tender. Laced with deep smokiness and the herbaceous-ness of a punchy preserved olive leaf gremolata, each skewer was piercingly flavourful.

Taste: 3.5/5

4 Likes

From my casual observations(and I could be wrong), the serving size of the Fremantle Octopus as part of the Feeeeeed Me! Omakase is the same regardless of whether a party of two or three are having it. That’s a shame since it was executed marvellously – tender, smoky and well-paired with a velvety, nutty macadamia tahini. It was gone in a flash before we knew it and left us wanting for more.

Taste: 3.5/5

3 Likes

Hot new kid on the Club Street block is Catfish – Chef Andrew Walsh’s latest fish grill and raw bar concept that sees French and Swedish technique combined with Asian ingredients to create an eclectic yet highly focused menu of shareable small plates and mains.

The very Instragram-able take on the Dim Sum classic of sesame prawn toast is elevated here with a beautiful Argentinian red prawn on thin slivers of toast sandwiching scallop mousse, and who can ignore the luxe toppings of fresh uni and caviar? Served with a bright citrus emulsion and herbaceous dill oil, every element on the plate worked together harmoniously and set the meal off on the right foot.

Taste: 3.5/5

3 Likes

I've learnt to take it with a pinch of salt when i see "Carbonara" on a menu here in Singapore, because more often than not, it isn't. What this is though, is a perfectly fine rendition of spaghetti in a white wine and cream sauce with bacon and Parmesan. The pasta could have been more al-dente, but we still enjoyed it.

Taste: 3/5

2 Likes

A homage to his Teochew heritage as well as a nod to the terrine and his French cooking background, chef Dylan's attempt to simultaneously preserve and radically modernize an almost extinct traditional Teochew dish has resulted in an extremely unique conceptualisation that still works despite its initial strangeness. Pork trotters are slow boiled for 10 hours and combined with pork belly as well as gelatinous pig skin to form a light tasting yet flavourful cold terrine, served with crunchy housemade chicharron and an inspired calamansi sorbet with a kick of chilli padi that doubles as sauce when it eventually melts.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3.5/5

Soft, pillowy and slightly charred, these gnocchi were pretty good except for a random few undercooked ones. The velvety potato sauce laced with miso butter and root vegetables as well as roasted garlic made this quite a hearty and flavoursome vegetarian option that is sure to please even meat lovers.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3.5/5

1 Like

The Masses evolving food philosophy always produces interesting results. One of their more successful plates is this extremely inviting looking otak-inspired fish cake that's made from local golden pomfret instead of mackerel. I loved the loosely packed texture of the fish cake and the restrained sensibility that calls for dialing back on the spiciness of the otak paste so that the shredded crab meat and tobiko are not overpowered (the uni is not normally part of this dish). This doesn't mean flavour was sacrificed, quite the contrary and especially so with the simultaneously refreshing and umami pork lard and calamansi vinaigrette used to dress to fish cake.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3.5/5

2 Likes

While the small bites on The Masses new menu are novel, it’s the more conventional yet still unique interpretations of classics that truly impressed. Instead of pork, they use the less popular lamb but makes it as good or even better. Marinated for 24 hours in their house-made charsiew sauce and sous vide for a lengthy 36 hours, it's obvious this is a labour of love and passion and more than just a day job for the team at The Masses. The result is richly flavoured, fall-of-the-bone meat with a perfect char from being finished off on the binchotan. The mint sour cream on the side is a cool and refreshing foil to the heavy protein as well.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 4/5

Drowning everything in butter almost guarantees it'll taste good. A large wedge of braised and grilled purple cabbage(white cabbage with the thick, outer leaves peeled off might have charred better on the grill) topped with baby scallops marinated in shao xin wine, pickled fennel and ikura takes a backseat to a fulsome amount of dashi infused beurre blanc sauce enhanced with a drizzle of umami prawn head oil. Sweet, buttery and fragrant, we mopped the bowl clean with binchotan-grilled bread.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3.5/5

3 Likes

Foie gras has been a constant in all 8 of The Masses menus so far and in the latest one, sees itself being stuffed alongside mango in a deep-fried, hoisin glazed springroll. I felt that the foie gras was a little lost amid the sweet mango and hoisin sauce, as well as the hazelnuts and lemon rind sprinkled atop which to be honest, didn't contribute much to the dish. That shallot marmalade on the side is ace though.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3/5

1 Like

Chef Dylan draws inspiration from both ramen eggs and Chinese tea eggs for this amuse bouche. His version is cooked for 7 minutes before being infused in tea leaf broth for a full 2 days, resulting in an umami packed flavour bomb with the delicate sweetness of tea and the molten core of an ajitsuke tamago. Taking his love for eggs to the logical conclusion, the seasoned eggs are loaded with caviar, herring roe and tobiko for a glorious trifecta of eggy goodness, then sat on housemade crispy potato chips which complement the soft eggs very well with contrasting texture. Perfectly elevated bar bite snackage.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3/5

2 Likes

All sorrows are less with bread, and with fresh butter, a true joy. The Masses’ housemade kombu butter is creamy, smooth and specked with seaweed whilst its caramel kaya is just the way I like it – not so smooth that it’s devoid of texture, and vibrant with the flavours of pandan and a caramel undertone. Load up on their binchotan-grilled Pain De Campagne ($5) and lather them slices up.

They even do takeaway jars of the stuff at $12.

<< Invited tasting >>

Taste: 3.5/5

1 Like

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